There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave. But we'll look at swell angles and ...

The type of wave, its properties such as wavelength, and the difference between the two media will determine what happens to most of the wave energy. Common examples of absorption of wave energy: ...

So if a wave slows down, its wavelength will decrease. The effect of this can be shown using wave front diagrams, like the one below. The diagram shows that as a wave travels across a boundary from ...